Goa, from people who stay there.

Where to stay, eat and go, when it rains, and how to get around: practical rather than scenic.

10 places to visit in Goa: what each costs, and when to go

Opening times, entry fees, how to reach each one, and the season it is actually open.

Ten areas of Goa, from Arambol to Palolem, with who each one suits, what it is bad at and which airport is closer.

Goa has two airports about 50 km apart, and the right one depends on where you are sleeping, not on which is newer.

Ten places to eat across North Goa, Panjim and South Goa, from fish thalis at lunch to chef-led Goan and South Indian dinners.

Big Baga clubs, a trance hill in Vagator, a Morjim day club and a headphone party in Palolem: ten places for a night out, and how to get home.

Ten things to do away from the beaches and clubs, from paddling the Chorao mangroves to a working cashew distillery in season.

North and South Goa are two different holidays about three hours apart. Here is who each suits, and how to split a trip between them.

The licence you need, the helmet rule, the yellow plate, and the five-minute check at the door that saves your deposit when renting a scooter in Goa.

June to September is the greenest and emptiest Goa. What closes in the monsoon, what is better, and how to stay safe in the rains.

Six questions to ask your host before arriving at a Goa holiday home, plus why they ask for ID, that prevent nearly every first-night problem.